Choosing strains for your condition – For a quick guide to the best strains for each condition, see http://www. unitedpatientsgroup. com/resources/medical-marijuana-strains. For a more in-depth guide to strains, try http://www. medicalmarijuanastrains. com/strain-guide/. Choosing strains by taste and potency – All marijuana contains the same ingredients, so though some is specifically recommended for ailments, any strain will provide relief. If your more interested in choosing by taste or potency, consult http://www. medicalmarijuanastrains. com/strain-guide/. Picking strains that are easy to grow – If you don’t have much of a green thumb, you’ll want to pick one of the easy to grow strains like AK-48, Northern Light, Aurora Indica, Jack Herer, Super Lemon Haze[3] X Research source
Be aware that under stress, female plants will become hermaphrodites and produce male flowers. You can avoid this by growing your plants in a low stress environment.
You’ll need an electrical outlet for your grow lights, as well as easy access to water. Marijuana grows best between 72 and 77 degrees. Try to choose a room where it is easy to maintain this temperature. Too many windows can make a room too hot, while a basement might require continual heating. A tile or concrete floor will make for easier cleanup of spilled soil or water.
Mylar – Aluminized mylar is expensive, but it reflects up to 97% of the light that hits it. Hang it flat against the wall and keep it clean. Flat white paint – It’s cheap, easy to clean, and reflects up to 85% of the light that hits it. Emergency blankets – You can buy them at camping stores. They only reflect 70% of light, but they’re inexpensive and good for small spaces like cabinets or closets. Aluminum foil – Don’t use it! It reflects light poorly, is hard to keep flat, and creates a fire hazard.
CFL – Compact fluorescent lights may be used for starts and seedlings, but generally do not produce enough light for the vegetation or flowering phase. HPS – High pressure sodium lights produce lots of light in the orange spectrum, making them best to use to induce flowering. A good rule of thumb when deciding how many lights to get is that you will need 50w per square foot of growing area. ML – Metal halide lights produce a lot of light in the blue spectrum, making them ideal for use during the plant’s vegetation phase, as they will keep your plant short and bushy. Again, you will need about 50w per square foot. LED – Full spectrum LED lights are much more energy efficient and do not get hot, so you can mount them closer to your plants and won’t need fans to remove heat. You can also use one set of lights for both the vegetation and flowering phase. Follow the recommendations of the manufacturer for how many lights you’ll need for your growing footprint.
HPS and ML bulbs – They are very hot, so consider getting a cooled hood that allows for a ventilation hook up that draws heat away. For a quick guide to how far from your plants they should be, see http://www. growweedeasy. com/hps-grow-lights-setup. LED – These lights usually come with a built-in fan for cooling.
Oscillating fan – Use an oscillating fan to circulate air so as to avoid hot spots and to create a breeze that will improve growth by helping with transpiration. Carbon filter – Attaching a carbon filter to your exhaust fan will remove odors that might aggravate your neighbors. Exhaust fan – You’ll want a fan with a high enough CFM rating (cubic feet exhausted per minute) to replace all the air in your grow room or tent every 1-3 minutes. Determine the cubic area of your space (length x width x height). Take into account efficiency. If the exhaust travels a straight, short path, multiply your area by 2. If the path is long or twisting, multiply by 3. Pick a fan with a CFM higher than the number you calculated, particularly if you are going to attach a filter. Air intake – You’ll need a way for new air to enter your tent or room as the old air is blown out. A simple hole (in the tent or a door or window) will do, so long as it is 3-4 times bigger than the exhaust hole. If the intake hole is smaller, you’ll want to use an intake fan to avoid putting to much stress on the exhaust fan.
Letting water sit for 24 hours will help bring its pH closer to 7. Raise water’s pH by adding lime, wood ash, or a pre-mixed solution (available at most garden centers). [14] X Research source Lower water’s pH by adding sulfur, phosphoric acid, or a pH-lowering solution. [15] X Research source If you live in a hard water area (meaning your tap water has a high mineral content), you will want to filter your water. Consult the water hardness map at http://www. qualitywatertreatment. com/city_water_guide. htm.
Starter cubes – These cubes of growing medium are the easiest option. Stick your seed in the hole, pointed end down, and keep the cube moist and warm. Once the seedling appears, you can plant the cube directly in potting soil. Good brands include Jiffy Pellets and Rapid Rooters. Wet paper towel – Put the seeds in the paper towel, fold it and put it in a dark place for 1 to 3 days. When a white root pops out, plant 1 inch deep with root downward. Warm water – For older or dried out seeds, try dropping them in a glass of slightly warm water and placing it in a dark place. They should sprout in 24-32 hours. If they haven’t after this time, move them to a moist place to finish sprouting. Germinate in soil – You can germinate your seedling directly in potting soil. Plant 1 inch deep with the pointy end down, and keep the soil moist and warm.
pH – Marijuana needs soil with a pH between 6. 0 and 7. For overly acidic soil, use 1 cup of dolomite lime for every ¼ liter of soil to increase pH. To increase acidity, add coffee grounds or citrus peelings. Texture – Moist soil should barely stay together when run through your hand, and feel spongy when you clench it in your fist. If the soil is too dry, you can add vermiculite to increase water retention, but be sure to adjust pH afterwards. Perlite will increase drainage and will not impact pH. Nutrients – As well as inorganic fertilizers, there are a variety of organic materials you can add to your soil to increase the phosphorous and nitrogen content, including guano (nitrogen and phosphorous), worm castings (nitrogen), kelp meal (potassium and nitrogen), and bone meal (phosphorous).
Water – Poke your finger in the soil – if it is dry up to your first knuckle, add water. Water until 10-20% of the water you added has drained out the bottom of the pot. Light – You need to provide at least 18 hours of light a day to keep your plants in the vegetative state. 24 hours of light will not harm the plants, but you can save energy by giving 18 hours of light and 6 hours of dark. Nutrients – Add the nutrients to the water you use to water the plants. Start by adding half the amount recommended on the packaging. As your plant gets bigger, you can add more nutrients. pH – The ideal pH is between 6 and 7. Add 1 cup of dolomite lime for every ¼ liter of soil to increase pH. To increase acidity, add coffee grounds or citrus peelings. Temperature – Keep the temperature between 70 and 85 degrees. 70-75 degrees is best for most plants. If you have a CO2 generator, you can raise the temperature to 80 degrees. [22] X Research source Humidity – Keep relative humidity at 70-80% during the seedling phase and 50-80% during the vegetative phase. Increase it with a humidifier. Lower it with a dehumidifier or by increasing the rate of your exhaust fan.
12" = 2-3 gallon container 24" = 3-5 gallon container 36" = 5-7 gallon container 48" = 6-10 gallon container 60" = 8-10+ gallon container
A male flower has pollen sacks (little balls) around where the main stem connects to the branches. A female flower has white hairs at that spot.
Light – During the 12 hours of light, give as much light as possible to the bud sites. Tuck leaves to the side to expose them. Nutrients – Switch to a formula lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus, as too much nitrogen can limit bud growth. After 4 weeks, you’ll want to start steadily reducing the amount of nutrients you provide. Provide no nutrients in the last 2 weeks to avoid any chemical taste to your buds. Humidity – Lower it to 40-50% to reduce the risk of disease.
Passive Wick System – The plant sits in a well-draining substrate above a nutrient solution, and nutrients are constantly drawn up into the substrate through a wick. Substrates: vermiculate, peat moss, coco peat. Ebb and Flow – A nutrient reservoir periodically floods the containers where your plants are growing. The solution then slowly drains back into the reservoir. Substrates: rockwool or coco peat. Top Feed/Drip Feed – Emitters drip nutrients directly into the soil near the roots. Excess nutrients then drain back down into the nutrient reservoir. Substrates: hydroton clay pebbles, coco peat, or rockwool. Nutrient Film – Multiple plants are placed in a tilted tray, with nutrients constantly flowing down the slope past their roots, then being pumped back to flow past again. An effective system, but best for experience growers as it requires a lot of fine-tuning. Substrates: rockwool or coco peat. Deep Water Culture – The roots grow in a constantly oxygenated nutrient solution. It is a low maintenance system, but a loss of power or incorrect nutrient levels can kill your plants. Substrates: rockwool or hydroton clay pebbles. Aeroponics – The plant roots are held in a dark, sealed box where small nozzles emit a mist of nutrients over them, providing a humid, oxygenated area for the roots. This is the most effective system for growing marijuana, but is also very expensive. Also, if the power cuts out, the mist stops and your plants die. Substrate: hydroton clay.
For older or dried out seeds, try germinating them in warm water in a dark room. If they have not sprouted after 32 hours, move them to a substrate to continue germinating.
Light – Your plants should receive at least 18 hours of light a day to keep them in the vegetative stage. 24 hours of light will not harm them. Temperature – Keep it between 72 and 77 degrees. [31] X Research source Humidity – Keep it at 50-80%. Nutrient mix – It should be changed at least every two weeks, or when the reservoir has dried. Mix the new solution in a bucket. Quickly throw out the old solution, clean the reservoir and pumps with hot water, and add the new solution. [32] X Research source Cleaning – Clean your system once a week. Scoop up any plant material, flush all pots to remove roots, and wash tools in the dishwasher. [33] X Research source
A male flower has pollen sacks (little balls) around where the main stem connects to the branches. A female flower has white hairs at that spot.
Nutrient mix – Switch to a low nitrogen, high phosphorus formula. A Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium mix of 5-50-17 is ideal, though 15-30-15 will work. Use nothing but clean water the last two weeks of flowering to flush out any chemical taste. [35] X Research source Humidity – Lower it to 40-50% to reduce the risk of disease. Light – Tuck leaves out of the way of the buds so they get plenty of light.
Space – Remember, you don’t need a lot of square feet to grow a big crop, since outdoor plants will get much taller than indoor ones. Protection – You must protect your crop from three things: people (angry neighbors or thieves); wind; and animals like rabbits and deer. Take advantage of natural features like hills, or screen off your crop. Sun exposure – The more sun your plants get, the better. Look for a southern exposure. Watch out for buildings, bushes, or trees that might cast shade over your garden. Water – Marijuana plants need lots of water. If it doesn’t rain a lot where you live, make sure your garden is within easy reach of a stream or a hose. Soil – Good soil is compact when squeeze but breaks apart again with little pressure. It should drain well, so avoid places with standing water. pH should be between 5. 8 and 6. 5. If grasses or weeds are already flourishing there, then it’s a good site.
Warm climates with no frosts (like southern California) – Choose any seed you want. Sunny climates with occasional frosts (like the Mediterranean or southern US) – Most indicas and some hybridized sativas, like Silver Haze #9. Colder, damper climates (like northern Europe or the northern US) – You’ll have best luck with strains specifically designed for such climates, like Sensi Star or Holland’s Hope. Also consider autoflowering strains like Auto Frisian Dew or Snow Ryder, which do well in colder climates.
Soil - If you are not blessed with soil that has the correct pH and drains well, you’ll want to improve it for higher yields. For clay soil, add compost and manure or perlite to improve drainage. For sandy soil, add compost and mulch or vermiculite to increase water retention. [40] X Research source You can also plant your crop in a container if the soil is very bad. Clearing – Pull up all grasses and weeds. You don’t want them competing with your crop. Holes – You can simply plant your seeds a half inch deep in the soil, but for better results, you’ll want to prepare holes with good drainage. Dig a hole about 2 feet deep and 2 feet in diameter. Line the base with gravel and fill it in with prepared soil.
Starter cubes – The easiest method. Stick your seed in a cube of growing medium like a Jiffy Pellet or Rapid Rooter. Once the seedling appears, you can plant it directly in potting soil. Damp paper towel – Fold a damp paper towel over the seeds and put them in a dark place for 1 to 3 days. When the root pops out, plant the seed 1 inch deep with the root downward. [42] X Research source Warm water – For older or dried out seeds, try dropping them in a glass of slightly warm water and placing it in a dark place. They should sprout in 24-32 hours. If they haven’t after this time, move them to a moist place to finish sprouting.
Water – If it rains 1 inch a week, you don’t need to add water. Otherwise, you’ll want to water your plants every other day. Try to use pH 7 water. Weeding – Remove any weeds growing around your crop. Vegetative nutrients – Give your plants nitrogen rich nutrients during the vegetative stage. You’ll want a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratio of around 10-5-7. [43] X Research source Flowering nutrients – Switch to a phosphorus-rich formula with a ratio between of 5-50-17 and 5-10-7. For the last two weeks of flowering, stop giving nutrients to avoid a chemical taste. Water with plain water to flush out chemicals from your plants.
Male flowers – Male pre-flowers have small bumps where the main stem connects to the flower. In developed flowers, these bumps become little balls (pollen sacs). Female flowers – Pre-flowers have white hairs protruding. Developed flowers will have a thicker concentration of hairs.
Pistils (the white hairs on the flowers) – Wait until new white hairs have stopped growing. Harvest when 50-75% of the hairs have darkened for the highest THC level. Harvest when 80-90% have darkened for more CBN, which has a relaxing effect. Trichomes – Trichomes are the “crystals” or glitter that accumulate on your buds during the flowering stage. Use a magnifier to examine the ones with mushroom-like heads on the ends. Harvest when most trichomes are milky or cloudy for the most intense high. Wait until they are amber for a more relaxing, narcotic type high.
Leaving the smaller leaves on the plant will result in a slower drying time, which means more flavor and potency.
Wet buds (over 70% RH) – If buds feel damp to the touch take them out to dry for another 12-24 hours. Wet buds in a jar run the risk of growing mold. Moist buds (65-70% RH) – If you shake the jar and some buds stick together, then they are too moist. Take the lid off the jar for 2-4 hours. Sticky buds (60-65% RH) – This is the zone where you want your buds to be. Buds feel a little sticky. They are neither wet, nor dry and crumbly. They do not clump together when you shake the jar. Dry buds (less than 60%RH) – If the buds feel brittle and crumbly, then insert a 62% Humidipak to restore moisture. Continue opening the jar once a day.
Short-term storage (under 6 months) – Put the buds in an airtight container, such as the mason jars or a Ziploc bag. Store in a cool, dark place. Long-term storage (over 6 months) – Consider vacuum sealing your buds to ensure they retain flavor and potency.
You can cultivate without restrictions in Alaska, California, Colorado, Hawaii, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Montana, Oregon, Rhode Island, Vermont, Washington A special license is required in New Mexico. In Arizona you can only cultivate if you lived 25 miles or more form a dispensary when you apply for a card In Nevada you can cultivate if you live 25 or more mile form a dispensary, if you are unable to travel to a dispensary, or if the dispensary does not carry the strains you need.
Registration mandatory: Alaska, Arizona, Colorado, Hawaii, Massachusetts, Michigan, Montana, Nevada, Rhode Island, and Vermont Registration voluntary: California, Maine, New Mexico No registration required: Washington
Arizona – Only dispensaries are allowed to grow marijuana for sale. You can find instructions on how to apply for a dispensary license at http://azdhs. gov/documents/licensing/medical-marijuana/dispensaries/DRC-ApplicationInstructions. pdf. Connecticut – You will need to acquire a producer license. This requires a non-refundable $25,000 application fee and a $75,000 registration fee. [56] X Trustworthy Source State of Connecticut Official website for the State of Connecticut Go to source Oregon – A license is required. You can find information on how to apply at http://www. oregon. gov/olcc/marijuana/Documents/Licensing_Forms/mj_app_producer_cultivation_plan. pdf. States where a license is required, but licenses have not yet been issued: Alaska, California,[57] X Research source Hawaii, Illinois, and Maryland. [58] X Research source States where licenses are required, but no more are currently being issued: Delaware,[59] X Research source Maine,[60] X Research source Minnesota, Nevada,[61] X Research source New Hampshire,[62] X Research source New Jersey,[63] X Research source New Mexico,[64] X Research source New York,[65] X Research source Rhode Island,[66] X Research source Vermont,[67] X Research source Washington,[68] X Research source and Washington, DC. States where medical marijuana is legal, but cultivation for sale is illegal: Michigan.
